How were patterns applied to fabrics in Uzbekistan in the 19th-20th centuries?

The art of printed cloth is not just patterned bedspreads, but also carved stamps – kolyb, with the help of which the pattern was applied to the fabric.

According to N. A. Avedova, the bulk of the kolybs stored in the State Museum of Arts of Uzbekistan were collected in the period from 1936 to 1943 by N. V. Rusinova, an employee of the Museum, in various villages famous for the production of printed cotton fabrics. The masters of Bukhara and Khiva were famous for making kolyb carved from local breeds of wood.

The history of this art is very ancient, and technological methods for creating prints using wooden carvings are known by many nations. The main centres of the production of printed cloth in Uzbekistan were Bukhara, Samarkand, Urgut, Kattakurgan, Shahrisabz, Fergana, Tashkent and Khorezm.

The works of each centre differed in colour, compositional solutions and decor motifs. Among the latter are flower rosettes and palmettes, pomegranates and almonds. The colour of the prints varied – from yellow ochre and dark red to blue-black colors.

You can learn more about this topic in the book-album “The Collection of the State Museum of Arts of Uzbekistan”  (Volume XIII) from the series “Cultural legacy of Uzbekistan in the world collections”.

The general sponsor of the project is the oilfield services company Eriell-Group.

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